Eldorado Canyon State Park, or “Eldo” as it’s commonly referred to, needs little introduction. This world class rock climbing destination is the crown jewel of Boulder and Denver. Thousands of single and multipitch climbing routes grace the canyon walls and hold a unique challenge for every climber. Tiny edges, intermittent cracks, and delicate footwork make for some of the best rock climbing in the world. Eldorado Canyon is jam packed with tremendous amounts of both single and multipitch rock climbing on beautiful, bullet hard Fountain sandstone.
No other destination in Colorado is so steeped in climbing history. Climbers began flocking here in the 1950’s to explore the towering canyon walls and natural weaknesses that wind their way up the cliffs. Many famous climbers such as Layton Kor, Pat Ament, and Christian Griffith left their mark on the Boulder climbing scene with test pieces such as the Naked Edge, Supremacy Crack, and Paris Girl. Some of the countries hardest rock climbs were at one time established on the stunning multicolored canyon walls. Today, Eldo holds a challenge for beginner and expert climbers alike.
Climbing here in the canyon takes a little getting used to. Eldo grades can feel tough. The in-obvious traverses, tiny feet, and sometimes run-out nature of the climbing give into the reputation of being “sandbagged”. Give it a few pitches though and you’ll never want to climb anywhere else! Short approaches, incredible climbing, and a huge diversity in climbing grades make Eldorado Canyon one of the best places to climb on the Front Range and we can show you the classics, or the adventurous “off the beaten path” routes.
This is a great destination for both half and full day climbing trips. Many of the bigger, classic routes are considered full days. Half days are great for cragging, or shorter multipitch routes on the Wind Tower or Whales Tail. It’s not uncommon to walk away from a day of climbing here with at least ten pitches under your belt. We guide many of the classics such as the Yellow Spur, Bastille Crack, and Rewritten. We also guide many other routes in the canyon. Contact Us if you’ve got another objective in mind and we’ll make it happen.
Routes in Eldorado Canyon
Swanson Arete is one of the finest routes to grace the walls of Eldorado Canyon State Park and one of the best moderate climbing routes in the Denver area. First climbed by Stan Shepard in the early 1960’s, this route was later named in memory of local Boulder climber Jon Swanson, who passed away in the Selkirk Mountains of Canada.
The Bastille Crack
No other climbing route in Colorado is as famous or as sought after as the Bastille Crack. Climbers from all over the world come to Eldorado Canyon State Park to climb this mega classic five pitch trad route.
Rewritten is one of the most sought after routes in Eldorado Canyon State Park. It climbs the impressive Green Spur Buttress and finishes on the super exposed and airy Rebuffat’s Arete on Redgarden Wall.
This mega-classic climb features some of the best climbing at the 5.8 grade, and definitely some of the best rock climbing in Eldorado Canyon State Park.
The Yellow Spur
If you were to climb only one route in Eldorado Canyon, the Yellow Spur is definitely a contender for the best route in the canyon. Many climbers agree that this is “a must climb in your lifetime route” and one of the finest climbs in all of Colorado.
One of the best 5.10 routes in the whole Front Range! Outer Space is truly an understatement. Even the bravest of climbers hesitate as they step out into the void on the crux pitch of this route.