Swanson Arete is one of the finest routes to grace the walls of Eldorado Canyon State Park and one of the best moderate climbing routes in the Denver area. First climbed by Stan Shepard in the early 1960’s, this route was later named in memory of local Boulder climber Jon Swanson, who passed away in the Selkirk Mountains of Canada. This airy and dramatic route features incredible positions high above the canyon floor and some of the best beginner multi pitch terrain on the Front Range of Colorado.

Technically speaking, Swanson Arete is a linkup of two different routes. It begins from the Red Ledge, halfway up the towering Redgarden Formation and climbs to the top of Lumpe Tower. The traditional approach to access the route is the West Chimney, although many other climbing routes end up on Red Ledge. From the parking area, a 30 minute hike along the river and up steep steps and metal ladders puts you at the base of the climb.

This is the Eldorado Canyon beginners classic, however, climbers of all abilities enjoy this route! Five to six wandering pitches up Redgarden Wall put you on an incredible summit with views of Denver, Boulder, and the mountains. With many different variations of climbing, you’re bound to never climb this route the same way twice.

After topping out Lumpe Tower, a short hike down the backside of Redgarden Wall leads to three rappels back to the ground.

More information:

• Recommended experience level: beginner to advanced
• This is a semi-strenuous climb
• 6 pitches, 5.6