The Matterhorn is one of the most iconic peaks in the world and stands as a symbol of alpine majesty and adventure. Rising to 4,478 meters (14,692 feet) above sea level, its distinctive pyramidal shape commands attention and inspires adventure. Located on the border between Switzerland and Italy, it’s awe-inspiring allure draws climbers and mountaineers, hikers, and nature enthusiasts from around the globe. This legendary mountain, often referred to as the “Mountain of Mountains,” offers a thrilling challenge to those who dare to ascend its exposed ridges, while its striking silhouette continues to inspire awe and wonder.
For many years, the Matterhorn was the unclimbed dream summit of many alpinists and mountaineers. It’s steep ridges, exposed faces, and technical difficulty turned all who tried around.
The mountain was first successfully summited on July 14, 1865, by an expedition led by British climber Edward Whymper. While climbing this magnificent peak was a success, tragedy ensued on the descent as four of the team members fell tragically to their deaths.
Since then, it has become a symbol of mountaineering, climbing, and alpinism, drawing adventurers from around the world to its challenging and steep faces. Whether you’re seeking the adrenaline of a summit attempt or the serene beauty of its surrounding landscapes, the Matterhorn embodies the pinnacle of the alpine climbing experience.
Even today, the Matterhorn is a mountain that commands respect. Climbers from all over the world travel to Zermatt to revel in its beauty and immerse themselves in the history of climbing. Records are still being set and climbers are still pushing the boundaries of alpinism on the Matterhorn.
As the standard route up the Matterhorn, the Hornligrat route, or Hornli Ridge, is steeped in climbing history. Everything from the Hornli Hut to the fixed bolts, pitons, stanchions, and boat ropes documents the diverse climbing history of the mountain.
The Hornli Ridge is approximately 4,000 feet of technical climbing involving rock, steep snow, and tons of exposure that create an exhilarating and physically demanding experience.
Golden Mountain Guides’ 5-day Matterhorn climbing program offers an alpine climbing and mountaineering experience unique to Zermatt and the Swiss Alps. An ascent of the Hornli Ridge normally takes 2 days; however, our six day program is designed to give climbers time to acclimate and train while in Zermatt.
These three training and weather days will give you the chance to work on efficiency while moving over rough and steep terrain, or sit out potential weather before a summit attempt of the Matterhorn. Our IFMGA licensed guides will work with you on climbing movement, technical skills, and footwork, both with crampons and without.
Some of the classic training objectives we use throughout these four days include the Riffelhorn, Breithorn, and Weisshorn (depending on climber fitness). These training days take place at altitude to help ensure climbers are a prepared as possible for a successful summit attempt.
The last two days of our Matterhorn program include a summit attempt of the famed Hornligrat route. From Zermatt, a chairlift ride up to Schwarzee starts the climbing experience of a lifetime.
While we guide the Matterhorn at a max ratio of 1:1, all of our in-country prep days can be run at a max ratio of 2:1. Please let us know if you have multiple people in your party and we can discuss options to make this trip a reality.
Climbing the Matterhorn remains an impressive feat and is still one of the most sought after summits in all of the Alps, if not the world. A little bit of everything is required to make it to the summit. Most mountaineers, alpinists, and climbers will need to prepare and train extensively at altitude to refine efficiency, balance, and climbing movement.
Preparation:
The Hornli ridge is extremely physical so hit the hills and get to altitude! Good preparation for a Matterhorn climb starts with a rigorous physical conditioning plan designed around climbing at altitude. Building a solid climbing resume that focuses on scrambling, YDS grades up to 5.7, and steep snow climbing is essential.
Prerequisites:
Due to the difficulty and exposure of this route, all participants must have previous rock climbing and alpine mountaineering experience. Participants should be comfortable scrambling on steep and exposed rock, be able to climb 5.7 rock routes in mountaineering boots, be familiar with rope work and technical climbing skills, and be experienced in using crampons and an ice axe on steep snow and ice, both while ascending and descending.
Climbers must be very sure-footed on steep terrain and possess strong mountain travel stamina and endurance. A high level of cardiovascular fitness and mountain endurance is needed to climb the Matterhorn. Excellent physical conditioning and prior climbs such as Denali and Rainier constitute good experience for conditions encountered on-route.
Completion of a Matterhorn Prep Course or similar; or acceptable personal climbing resume. We offer a Matterhorn Prep Course that can help get you up to speed.
*Note: While guides will do their best to get you to the summit, a summit is not guaranteed if the guide feels the client’s safety or well-being is at risk.
Course Dates | Price | Location | Course Length | Difficulty Rating |
---|---|---|---|---|
Course DatesAugust 11 - 15, 2025 | Price$6,999 | LocationZermatt, Switzerland | Course Length5 days | Difficulty Rating8/10 |
Course DatesAugust 17 - 21, 2025 | Price$6,999 | LocationZermatt, Switzerland | Course Length5 days | Difficulty Rating8/10 |
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Sample Itinerary:
Day 1: Alpine Style Rock climbing and Acclimatization training day in and around Zermatt.
Day 2: Alpine Style Rock climbing and Acclimatization training day in and around Zermatt.
Day 3: Weather day or optional alpine climbing day in and around Zermatt.
Day 4: Approach to the Hornli Hut: We take the Gondola from Zermatt to Schwarzsee. From the Gondola we’ll hike from to the Hornli Hut (about 2.5 hours) where we’ll settle into our bunks and organize our gear for the climb before enjoying an excellent dinner from the hut cooks.
Day 5: Matterhorn Summit Day and back down to Zermatt: An alpine start, heading up the Matterhorn. We’ll climb just under 4,000′ (1200m) (4-6 hours)of alpine rock and snow to reach the summit of the Matterhorn. From our high point, we’ll descend (4-6 hours) back to Hornli Hut where we’ll enjoy freshly cooked food and cold drinks. From here, we will depart back down to the gonadalla, traveling back to the town of Zermatt.
*Please note that all Matterhorn climbing itineraries are subject to change due to weather/conditions on the mountain/client ability and fitness.
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